BRIAN WALL

talking to Les J.Parkinson

I have known the likeable Brian Wall for many years and you rarely see him ruffled, he is that easy going but no doubt Brian like most successful people can make his point known. Brian is also a very successful fancier as well as businessman and for that reason I generally keep an eye on the results from his part of the country with the question being “How long can a fancier maintain a winning system”. Throughout this article I hope that we can answer a few of those questions and maybe give someone else a few ideas that may get them nearer to the top of the results.

Q. Please introduce yourself and tell us how you got started in the sport.
A. My name is Brian Wall and I fly as Mr & Mrs B. Wall in Havant Hampshire. I took up racing pigeons again upon leaving the navy and moving down south from Middlesborough, before that I had kept pigeons from about 9 years of age until I joined the R.N. My Grandfather had pigeons and we all had them as boys. On moving down south a great man and good friend helped me in more ways than I can ever say - Colin Bakes, who has sadly passed away now. Gone but not forgotten.

Q. Give the readers the basic results that you have achieved as a partnership.
A. We have been fairly successful in all competitions from club to Nationals and we have been the highest prize winners in clubs and feds over the years. We have won two R.P.R.A awards, won Open races the section in Nationals etc. Also 4th open Nantes BBC and 10th open BICC Nantes. We have also won first prizes in different combines over the years.

Q. Amongst those results what are the real highlights?
A. Probably being 4th Open 1st section Nantes National then the following year 12th Open 1st section in the same race again with the same bird. This bird was also a Federation winner, probably the best bird I will ever own. He was stolen about 3 years ago; he never bred a carrot though. Another result which I was pleased with was 1st open SMT combine 6000 plus birds by over 11ypm not long after we stated racing again here in the south of England with a yearling cock.

Q. What organisations do you race with?
A. Solent Federation, Portsmouth N.R. Federation. BCC. BICC. Central Southern Classic and the National FC.

Q. Do you hold any official position and if so do you take an active part, if no what are your reasons?
A. I was chairman of my club for over 11 years until business commitments forced me to stand down.
I have always taken an active part in the Club/federations etc, and help in any way I can.

Q. Do you ever think about competing for averages, if not why?
A. In the early days, like many fanciers I liked to compete for averages but not any more because I will miss a race if I do not like the` weather or my birds need the rest, whereas years ago I would send no matter what. When you have been racing pigeons for a number of years you do re-evaluate the way you compete in the races. Winning averages is nice and deserves the accolade it gets because it's not easy, but I've done it and now don't feel the need to do it again. from this year my main aim is for the bigger races in the Classics BICC and BBC although I will still support my club.

Q. How do you race your pigeons and how many?
A. I race the basic widowhood system and fly about 34 to 36 cocks. We need this many as most of our racing is over the channel and birds cannot go every week. This year I intend to race some hens for the first time which I think will be interesting, just to the perch or to the box. I also intend in the next year or two to try my hand at a few of the longer races. I've always concentrated on sprint to middle distance so I want to have a go at pastures new.

Q. What are your lofts made of and how big are they?
A. They are all of wooden structure with pan tiled roofs, coated with a green metal coated plastic which is really only to make them look more attractive in the garden. I have 2 x 26 foot lofts a 10-foot stock loft and a 12-foot YB loft. In my widowhood loft of 26 feet long 8 feet wide I only race 32 cocks which as you can imagine gives them plenty of room. It's got 4 sections with 8 cocks per section. Although the lofts are large I have in the pasted only raced a maximum of 34 cocks which for the set up is a small team.

Q. Do you attach any importance to having a tiled roof on a loft, if so are there any benefits?
A. I believe a tiled roof (pan tiles) is extremely important to a successful loft. The airflow is so important you need that constant change of air a pan-tiled roof gives you. Both you and the birds are the better for it.

Q. How many stock birds do you keep and do you breed off your race team also how many pigeons do you think that you need to breed off any individual stock pair each year to see if they are quality producers?
A.Like a lot of fanciers I have to many, about 15 pairs. I always like to bring something in each year. This is now out of hand and 15 pairs for a loft like mine is far too many, especially if you are not a fancier who sells pigeons. It is easy for the stock loft to become to full when you have successful racers coming through each year. You really need to breed about six youngsters off a pair to be sure of a good feel for what you have bred. You can of course breed one pair and get the winners but they are one off situations and should not be the rule of thumb. I like to give the stock birds a chance to prove their worth so I really think 6 a season is what you need if they have to prove themselves within a reasonable time scale.

Q. When do you pair your pigeons and why then?
A. I pair the pigeons up after Blackpool, this is because of Gem being so busy on the run up to the show, also I do not believe you need to breed early babies these days especially if you are on darkness. Early youngsters cost you time and money feeding them when you don’t have to. Also the best babies are those that are bred in warmer conditions - theirs no doubt in my mind about that. I would never again breed in December for instance.

Q. Do you move the hens with the young birds?
A. Yes I do and I think its good for both hens and babies and I also believe it bonds the cock more to his box when he has sole charge of one baby. (I leave one Y.B & take one away) Babies seem to pick up quicker and are more independent when they are on their own. The hens will look after any baby when they are on the floor squeaking for food and the babies all settle together so every one is happy, me the cocks & Hens and the babies.

Q. Young bird sickness is a problem; have you had this in your loft and if so what have you treated them with?
A. I have had Y.B sickness in my loft for about 7yrs. I do not get real problems because I give them quiet a bit of Gemthepax and Strike which helps to stabilise such problems. They just go off form and maybe one or two throw up. I leave them alone for a week to ten days and give them plenty of Gemthepax and Strike they are soon back to normal. If you get Y.B. sickness it's 99% certain you get it the following year. I think the older birds are probably shredding the virus which is now harmless to them and due to the way we look after our birds (Walking from one section/Loft to another, using the same scraper, handling things etc.) we probably pass it on to them and it comes out when they get stressed which is usually when we start to train or race. Leave them alone and only give antibiotics if they really need them, which is not just because they hold corn or throw up. If the droppings change then is the time to give antibiotics and only if they go green slimy or very watery. Just as an absolute plug use Aqua guards in your YB loft throughout the year it may save you much trouble.

Q. Do you race your young birds, if so how many races, if not why, do you think they are better off in the longer events if they are only raced lightly?
A. I have always enjoyed Y.B racing but I will not go out of the way to train down the road like a madman, I’ve been there and done that and I never want to do it again I much prefer to treat young bird racing as a bit of fun. I like to win but it generally proves nothing beating other birds by seconds or decimals really means nothing at all. I think you need to give a young bird at least 4/5 races to set it up for the following year. There are always exceptions to every rule but as long as they are not really hard races 4/5 is a nice number of races combined with the training they have had, I always think they are YB for one season and old birds for many years so I like to look after them and not burn them out as babies.

Q. What criteria do you set down for the pigeons you winter with your thoughts on the following seasons racing and breeding?
A. The pigeon must be sound, bred off good stuff and have raced fairly well with only yearlings that have raced decently retained with thoughts on the future. Two years olds must have won or taken good positions to keep their box, pigeon racing is becoming more competitive so they need to be good pigeons to stay in the loft. We have all kept poor pigeons just to fill the boxes and we all know it doesn’t really pay in the end.

Q. Do you have any grills fitted in the floor or in the boxes, are there any advantages to using them?
A. I do have grills now on the floor and I would not be without them, I used to like deep litter and in fact still do but like most fanciers I am always looking for something better so I now have grills fitted. I keep these to use on the floors only because I don’t like plastic grills in boxes and I don’t think birds do either. Deep litter, especially in winter is nicer for the birds I think, it keeps dampness away and makes the loft that much warmer for the birds.

Q. What do you think about the vaccination programme for the pigeons and do you think it affects the pigeon’s long term?
A. I, like most other fanciers hate doing it but at the moment we have no choice so we must persevere, the only addition to that is I do not think it does birds any harm, it might not do them any good but I do not believe it is harmful to them.

Q. Do you attach any importance to grits and minerals or can the pigeons get what they want they are out of the loft?
A. Both Grit and Minerals are vital to pigeons and even minute amounts can make the difference. Pigeons are pickers and they’ll peck anything they can and if they are deficient in any minerals or trace elements etc. they can pick up bits and pieces that are far from good for them. I Always have pink minerals available, Black minerals I very rarely use and we here in the UK are possibly the only ones to use them but pink minerals I always use along with other products like clay blocks which I find are excellent for the birds. Minerals and grits of different types are vital for stock birds.

Q. Do you use any floor dressing or do you clean the pigeons out daily?
A. I clean out daily and use floor white mixed with Hankers loft compound and that keeps the loft dry and fresh. The grills are lifted when I think they require doing, but I never leave droppings hanging around for long they can be a source of problems if not removed fairly quickly.

Q. Do you like to have plenty of room for the pigeons?
A. Plenty of room and air space is an absolute must in a winning loft, this is one of the reasons Y.B’s have so much trouble we all over crowd and they are not happy. Room is essential and you are better off having less pigeons and allowing them more room for a winning combination. Look around and you will notice that the fancier with the most crowed loft is usually the one with the most problems.

Q. How do you feed the cocks and what do you feed them on, a branded mix or do you buy separate corns and mix your own?
A. I feed individually to all my widow cocks by doing it this way I know what they are all eating and that they get the balanced diet required. As a rule of thumb I give them one and a quarter ounces per day. I use Gem mixture and feed about 3 different corns in a week, I also like P40 pellets from Hope Farms of Holland. Feeding is an art and those that crack it are usually at the top. The stock birds are fed in feeders on the floor until after the first round, this is because by then some are on eggs and others are feeding when this happens I feed each pair individually. Those without YB's have a light mix on the floor once a day, this way it helps keep the weight off them.

Q. Do you measure the amount that you give to each pigeon, or are they fed according to the individual pigeon?
A. Yes each pigeon gets a measure but I try to treat them as individuals and can and do move the measure up and down. A pigeon that returns from a race were it as made hard work of it will be fed differently from the rest of the team. I also keep an eye on the weather forecast for the weekend and alter my feeding to suit the type of race I for see, you never get it right all the time but you will be nearer to getting it right than wrong

Q. Easterly or Westerly do you set any stall by the position and if so why?
A. In a tight Federation position is everything, I do not like cold easterly winds because the birds do not like them and you can lose some good pigeons. These winds can also knock pigeons back weeks if the pigeons are caught on a bad day in them. This usually happens in earlier races were birds are not completely race fit and boy does it knock them back.

Q. Do you consider there to be any advantage having a racing partnership?
A. Absolutely you will never beat a good partnership look at the winners of the Up North Combine each year the majority of top lofts are partnerships. If all partners no matter how many do their share then the pigeons will benefit because more time can be allocated to the important details that make a winning loft. I spend more time than I would like doing the important things like cleaning out etc. this time should be used to look at the birds more because they tell you if things are not right. It's difficult working long hours rushing home and then having to do all the mundane chores before you can spend a few minutes looking at the birds.

Q. Are there any points that you disagree on and if so how do you compromise a situation where there is a different viewpoint?
A. Of course its human nature to disagree, however we have to agree to disagree otherwise we are finished. One of the things I like about my own club is we can have some good old heated discussions about pigeons but we never hold grudges once we meet again any argument is for gotten (we probably can't remember what it was about anyway)

Q. Do each of you have an area within the partnership where responsibilities take control regarding a decision?
A. Yes I ask Viv her opinion, and then do as I was going to anyway. LES. Elizabeth tells me that I do the same so you are not on your own Brian.

Q. To term a phrase are you a professional team of pigeon fanciers and do your circumstances make a big difference?
A. I certainly am not a professional pigeon fancier because I work six days per week and some evenings so pigeons are definitely a hobby and I would like to keep it that way.

Q. Whenever I have visited a loft fanciers always look at the pigeon’s eye. Do you consider that the eye has any importance in (a) the breeding, (b) distance races (c) sprint races. (d) The pigeon’s health. Or do you steer clear of the subject and if so why?
A. I am not an eye sign man but I do like a good eye. I do not disagree with eye sign, but it is not for me. An eye can and does tell you if a bird is ill. I am sure it is very useful in breeding and pairing pigeons together and those who do it successfully benefit from it. It is just a subject that I have never felt the need or desire to be interested in.

Q. Do you use any preventative medication? If a pigeon goes ill do you try to put it right or does the bird have to go?
A. I am a big believer in natural products to achieve health and condition and these do work. However if I had a real problem in the loft I would use medication to treat. I will always try and treat a bird if I can. Science has moved on and it has given us the products (both Natural and with prescribed medications) to treat birds that many years ago would have been culled, what you must remember is that even good birds can suffer an illness at some time in their life and most are easily treatable. When you say preventative medication - remember you cannot treat for an headache that you think you are going to get next week. What you can do of course is for example treat for Canker before racing or breeding to lower the canker count, but even so it is much better to have the birds checked for this than to treat blindly. Giving birds antibiotics when they do not require them will do more harm than good.

Q. How many weeks do you think a pigeon can maintain its form on the widowhood system for both cocks and hens?
A. I do not race hens but like most fanciers I am prone to change and I might try a few this season but I think with the right management you can keep a widowhood cock on a climbing then decreasing form for six weeks. So all things being equal you should have the widowhoods flying to win for a 6-week period in a season. I know once again things can be different in other lofts but six weeks of form is about what I think we can race successfully on

Q. Does this include channel races or are the specified number of weeks for sprint races and do you think that a pigeon can be prepared at fortnightly intervals for the channel races?
A. Yes it includes channel races but don’t forget I live on the south coast and we have 11 channel races in our fed so some of our races over the channel are 100 miles, going up to 480mls. As a rule early on if its good racing I race two weeks then rest for one week. If for example like the Belgium's the races were from 60miles - 250 miles you could go every week for the 6 to 8 weeks.

Q. Do you treat pigeons differently with their preparation if they are to go to the bigger races whether National, Classic, Specialist club or open?
A. You have to prepare them for a particular big race, although with widowhood cocks it’s difficult to change anything about the routine without upsetting them. Flying over 450 miles is of course more difficult and I think they have to be prepared more with plenty of rest before the big race.

Q. Do you think a pigeon has the capabilities of racing both short and long distance races? Also what distance can a pigeon actually still “RACE” as opposed to homing from any race point?
A. Yes I do think some pigeons can win sprint races and long races but the management has to be different for sprint and distance. I think a good bird will race up to 450 miles and then it will home as best it can. This of course is dependent on the weather conditions because they are covering a big area and conditions soon change, but generally I think they race for about 450 miles.

Q. What proportion of your pigeons get better on subsequent trips to the long distance races and what do you call distance?
A. Being a sprint to middle distance flyer anything over 350 miles for me is distance. So I really cannot comment too much on distance racing. I may have a go this year with some hens and I have bought in a few distance birds for the future so watch this space as they say, no promises but I am always prepared to have a go, that is what pigeon racing is all about.

Q. Which is the more difficult, establishing a team of sprinter’s or distance pigeons and why?
A. They are both hard in there own way; I think the only difference is with distance pigeons it takes far longer to establish a team for obvious reasons.

Q. What happens when you are racing either widowhood or the roundabout when you have a bad race and lose a few from one sex, how do you continue with those pigeons who have lost their mate?
A. When a pigeon whether it is a cock or a hen, on widowhood loses it’s mate there should not be a problem as long as it gets a cock/hen as a substitute. Obviously it’s best if it has its breeding mate, but generally if they are keyed up enough any member of the opposite sex will do and that's an ex navy man speaking!

Q. Sprinter or distance, there is no difference; it is all in the feeding?
A. To a degree, but it is in the management, which of course is incorporated with the feeding. But some families of pigeons are bred for sprint and some for distance, certainly if you have line bred or bought pigeons from a sprinter or a distance man you cannot after years of this type of racing expect them to do the other successfully, again there are always exceptions to the rules. But it is really horses for courses.

Q. Taking into account distance, which is more difficult racing to your area, is it a case of a 600ml race is a 600ml race regardless of competition or route?
A. Living on the south coast our pigeons have to hit the loft dead on or otherwise they have to dog leg and its dead time. So the wind has to be right for us or we will get beat by birds that can correct the line as they move inland. This applies equally to a 100mile race or a 600mile race. Of course the longer the distance the more the birds are spread out and drag has less effect on the out come (the wind will still play a big part of course)

Q. What families of pigeons do you keep?
A. My main family is Mardon Van Reets and Janssen/DeKlak. I have bought in some Marcellis this year to try from Eric Perrin of Telford, these look the part and as babies took 1st and 2nd fed 2,900 birds.

Q. How do you go about bringing in a new family and what do you look for?
A. These have to be birds I like from good fanciers and the type of birds that compete in middle distance/sprint racing. Medium build, nice wing and handles really well, balance is also a big thing for me. It’s hard to explain because most of the time it's an individual choice if you like it that’s what counts because at the end of the day if you have made the right choice they will produce the goods.

Q. When you bring in that new family do you think that they need time to acclimatise, if so how long?
A. I’m 55 years of age I do not have time, they must show after two years or they are out.

Q. Do you think that fanciers change for the sake of changing or do you think a loft can breed a winning team out and lose track of the winners?
A. I do think many fanciers change for the sake of change (including me) I also think many do loose track of breeding birds. Equally I believe that many fanciers hold on to poor birds to long.

Q. When looking for new pigeons do you look for a particular family, one for specialist races or club races or just be name?
A. I look for a winning family, names or breed not important, just good pigeons from a good fancier that does well in all competitions. I think we here in the UK are to obsessed with pedigrees instead of looking for the quality.

Q. Early in the article we discussed the wind direction, do you consider that good pigeons will win in any position.?
A. Of course wind and position is everything, no matter what some people may say. Some times good pigeons buck the odds but most of the time its position and wind that win races especially classic/nationals etc. You will never beat the position with the wind look at the results in these races. It's not always the same fancier of course but it will generally be won in the area that the wind favours.

Q. Some fanciers go out and purchase good quality winning pigeons but never appear to make the grade, why do you consider that this happens?
A. Simple, you need good pigeons and good management, if you have one without the other you will not consistently win. Again some pigeons win despite the poor management but not often and as the old saying goes “You can’t make a silk purse out of a pig’s ear”.

Q. Do you give any special treatments when the pigeons return from the race as a precaution against anything that they may have picked up in the basket?
A. My bird’s get Gemthrapax on return (they really come back quickly with this after a race) and Strike all day Sunday, I also treat for canker once per month, and I use Trikanox.

Q. Do you race your pigeons every week or do you prefer to condition them for a specific race?
A. Widow cocks go most weeks’ weather permitting, other wise over the channel they have two races then a weeks rest if they have had a bad race I will rest them and if the big races are coming up I will tend to rest them the week before.

Q. Is there any specific condition that your pigeons perform best at, or any particular time of the year?
A. Racing widowhood it’s getting them right for those six weeks of form, which for me is middle of May to middle of June.

Q. In your view do you think that a loft needs different pigeons for different distances?
A. Once again its management I have had my Van Reets win 1st section Pau and 5th open in a big Classic race, not for me I hasten to add. I do believe families bred year after year for distance will do it easier than families that are not bred that way which we have mentioned earlier. But I do believe that if they are treated differently you can get so called sprint families from the distance, depends what's in their head and heart.

Q. Which of the two sexes do you consider is the most important when it comes to breeding?
A. Depends on which is carrying the winning genes, I have cocks that breed winners and also hens but not with every bird they are paired to only with certain birds. That's why it's always advisable to change pairs in the stock loft, one pair may suddenly click and you have that 'golden pair'.

Q. Some fanciers like big hens for breeding does the size of the hen make any difference to the quality of youngsters that she breeds in your past experience.?
A. Generally a big hen will breed the like if the cock is on the large size as well. So unless you want big pigeons you must mate them with smaller birds to get a medium pigeon. The quality of the youngsters will be no difference big or small although I think big youngsters mature more slowly and if you are not careful when racing them as babies you could lose them.

Q. Is there anything that you have not won in the sport that you would like to achieve?
A. Yes I would like to win a National /Classic that is the ultimate aim of any fancier who likes to compete at all levels of competition.

Q. Who do you consider to be the best fanciers in the Country and for what reasons?
A. An impossible question to answer. You cannot compare fanciers in different parts of the country because they race different races against different members, different positions, different numbers, different distances, have more money, less money etc etc. What I do believe is that we have some of the best fanciers in the world in this country more so than the so-called super stars of the continent. Our racing is much more difficult than theirs for a start.

Q. What do you think can be done to take the sport forward?
A. I’m afraid it’s to late to hope to increase pigeon fanciers because the world has moved on and younger people are never going to be interested to look after pigeons 24/7. I wish it could be different but I am afraid it wont be. The only places in the world were fanciers are increasing are Asia, Middle East, maybe S. Africa but the rest of the world numbers are falling pretty fast. I don't want to sound defeatist but I'm being realistic, it may not be what some people want to hear but I'm afraid its a fact.

Q. Do you read many magazines/Articles, if so which type of article do you find interesting and
why?
A. I do read the magazines; I like articles about other fanciers, reading about methods etc. Also when
a big race has been won and by whom etc. it is all part of the learning curve, and I believe it gives due recognition to the fancier who has won the race.

Q. Are there any special treatments that you give your birds once the season ha finished what do you recommend the readers to do with the birds?
A. Once racing has finished I treat for canker and worms and nothing else and I would advise fanciers to do the same.

Q. When it comes to breeding do you line-breed or use a first cross or just pair winners to winners?
A. To be perfectly honest I do all of the above depends on how I will view the pigeon. I usually keep the stock birds paired to the same family and cross the race team. But what is pure? Nearly every pigeon is a cross no matter what the pedigree says.

Q . Do you breed off the top widowhood cocks after the racing has finished, do you breed late bred youngsters and what do you think of those later bred youngsters?
A. Sometimes I do, if it's been a particular hard seasons racing other wise I let them have eggs and sit them out. I hate breeding late breds and I generally I never keep them unless there is the very odd one that I may need for stock.

Q. If your race team went off form during the season what action would you take to restore their condition?
A. Rest, rest and more rest, I would also have the droppings tested and if there were a problem then I would treat accordingly.

Q. Is a favourable loft location the single biggest factor in sprint racing?
A. Generally yes, if birds are coming to one area. A long the coast, we used to race against the lads from Southampton who had to give us 10 miles or so. They had very little chance of beating the longer flyers that were also on the line of flight. It was grossly unfair to them but living on the coast spread out, as we are it was the only way we could race unless we went north, or as we do now south over the channel. Q. Do you use the darkness system for the young birds, if so for how long and do you think it affects them later in life.
A. I used to have them on darkness but not anymore because I found my yearlings did not perform as well if they have been on darkness. I used to have at least 5/6 firsts with yearlings this dropped off when I went onto darkness. Once I came off it I was again winning with yearlings. I know many fanciers would disagree with this but it was just some thing I found was affecting me. If all your club/Fed mates are on darkness what advantage do you have? None - the best fancier will still win. It does mean of course I cannot really compete in the later YB races with any success but this is a price I am willing to pay.

Q. Are there any feeding methods for the young birds i.e. do you break them down, do you keep them hungry for control purposes, do you give them a trapping seed mix?
A. I never have young birds hungry, I feed them lighter early in the week and fill them up nearer race time, this is depending on how much training they are receiving and how they fly around the loft. Trapping seeds are used sparingly.

Q. What percentage do you consider it takes to win with racing pigeons for Management and pigeons and why?
A. I would say it is 70% pigeon and 30% pigeon management but you need both to be successful. A good pigeon fed wrongly or carrying to much weight will not win and that’s bad management. Equally a poor pigeon with the correct management will not win. This is a case of needing everything to match up if you are going to win.

Q. What is the farthest distance that you would train your old birds or young birds?
A. I hate training and after the first race with widowhood cocks do not train. I don’t like to train the young birds any further than 30mls, mainly because I refuse to go any further, but I do give them plenty of single ups from work which is about ten miles to the loft, just far enough for a fly and near enough to build their confidence in flying on their own.

Q. If random drugs tests were carried out on your pigeons, would it reveal any substance, illegal or otherwise?
A. Certainly nothing illegal, if I had to treat for a problem such as salmonella etc. then they might find a residue of whatever I’d been advised to use but nothing else. Drugs is a thing that some fanciers will use to win 'its in the nature of the beast’ with many fanciers going to the continent and finding ways from the super stars they will bring things back if they can. Any cheat should be banned for life no question if they are caught cheating fellow fanciers out of positions that would have been hard earned and possibly money they should be named and shamed and banned. One good point is that my own Federation the Solent Fed have thankfully adopted to test for drugs during the season.

Q. How do you consider that the British sport is going compared to the continentals and do they have any ideas that you think would benefit the sport in the UK?
A. All the continentals are facing the same problems that we do, including huge drops in membership. They have some good ideas regarding prize monies/pooling etc. Also first hen/yearling/YB etc in each race the more winning positions help to spread prizes. This then leads to more satisfied fanciers who may not leave the sport. It's surprising what a little success can make.

Q. Is pigeon racing as a hobby going beyond the average working man? Is it becoming too technical and complicated or can you keep everything simple and still win with the pigeons?
A. No I do not believe so. What is difficult in keeping pigeons? What you have to have is an open mind and move with the times especially with feeding and medication. But you can keep it relatively simple and inexpensive at the same time. People go on about the cost of keeping pigeons; in reality it is probably as cheap now as it was in the past. The first bag of corn I purchased when I restarted down south cost me £7.75 and that was 20 years ago. I am selling corn in the unit for the same price now. When you think what a pint of beer cost 20 years ago and what it costs now it bears no resemblance, it's the same with birdage costs they have not gone up that much when you consider the rises over the years in wages, transport, fuel etc.

Q. You are successful fanciers, there are far too many leaving the sport, to encourage fanciers to either join or stay in the sport what do you think about limiting prizes to two per race per loft? If not Why? If yes Why?
A. I only ever usually time 3 birds in a race. I dislike the fancier who fills his clock there’s no need for it, you know if you have other birds home at the winning time why fill the clock. You make-work and also disillusion other fanciers who have worked just as hard as you have. If these guys remember just how they felt when they were not as successful as they are now when they were behind and show a bit of humility they would not do it. Unfortunately they think every one is saying 'what a great fancier so & so is' instead of 'he's just a greedy B-----'. The same fancier is very quick to say 'only read the first one when he is a good way behind, he doesn't want to look foolish then. The club should have them read off and show the Federation just how far behind he is and with a clock full of pigeons. This is one of the things that is frightening off many fanciers from the Electronic clocking method. It's different in nationals & Classic racing of course I'm only talking about club racing here.

Q. Do you think winning fanciers should move on from club racing once they have reached a certain level of consistency? Are club performances paramount for personal satisfaction or sales purposes?
A. It depends on the fancier he may enjoy his club, the club is the backbone of the sport and once we lose club/federation racing we are on the slippery slope quicker than we are now. What would be the premier league if we did not have the 1st, 2nd, 3rd divisions? You need a strong successful base in any sport and we should not forget this. From my own personal point of view without my club and the friends I have in it the sport would be so less attractive to me and I'm sure that goes for many thousands of fanciers throughout the country. You can race in the club and still fly the Nationals/Classics if that's what you want.

Q. Do you attach any real importance to the pigeon’s wing i.e. back wing, end four flights and do you look at the wing to see if they have cast before a race. Do you have any other comments on the wing?
A. The wing is very important to a good pigeon. Secondary flights cut straight across in a nice even line; strong wing flicks back sharply when held out and let go a nice gap on the end four flights. A strong back plenty of cover flights on the wing part of the back. A nice curve to the wing when its held at eye level. Regarding the casting of flights, generally a pigeon starts to moult when it is in good condition just as nature intended so I like to see a first flight cast middle May in my widowhood team.

Q. Do you use any form of heating system in any of your lofts. Do you think it would be advantages for the birds?
A. Two weeks before racing if it’s cold and damp I will put the heaters on low, I never use them in the winter no matter how cold it gets. They are used very sparingly and only if it gets cold during the first few races, I do not want my cocks using energy keeping warm only during a race.

Q. Do the pigeons need any special treatment on their return from the race to help them relax? Is any such treatment needed for the short or long distance races or the hard races compared to the easy races?
A. Pigeons need rest and feeding properly to put back into them all they have lost during the race, this needs to be done as quickly as possible without over tiring the digestive system. The sooner the pigeon is rested and replenished the sooner the body is ready for the next race. This is a very important management point so bare it in mind.

Q. Irrespective of how your pigeons have flown, what are your views on the past season whether good or bad or the management of the sport in general?
A. I think last year we were still suffering from the effects of the poor racing we had due to foot and
mouth. There seemed to be a feeling of gloom at the start of the season and it was hard to shake it off. The hawk problem is getting out of hand and there does not seem much is going to be done about it. I do not blame the RPRA on this they are doing the best they can. Like most fanciers I think now we should look after our selves and make the sport as attractive and as cheap as we can for those of us that are left in it. We have supported Charities long enough, now we should look after our own in this regard. I personally always give generously to charity and I do not expect the RPRA to do it for me again. We should look after one another and our families and the families of our fellow fanciers. We are one big club throughout the country and the club 'funds' should be for members and their families when and if they need it.

Q. With your pigeon work do you have a silent partner i.e. wife, partner or friend, if so what part do they play?
A. Viv my wife helps me when she can, once again its difficult with the business. She will feed the young birds and exercise them during the summer and if needs be do all the birds if I’m away. I couldn't manage without her help and understanding.

Q. Is there anything that you do not like about the sport, something that you feel needs changing for the good of the sport?
A. I hate the petty backbiting and officials that now only keep birds to prove they are fanciers, when really they are only in the sport as petty officials. We seem to be ruled by these people who can’t see that it’s only a sport/hobby. They are happy to enforce petty rules when commonsense should prevail, upset people for the sake of it. So silly and unnecessary.

Q. Do you compete in the National events, if not why not? Or are you happy to race in the club?
A. In the past I have sent occasionally each year with 6-8 birds but from this year I intend to compete more often and with more birds. Although I will always support my club I intend to concentrate more on specialist racing from now on.

Q. Do you have any further comments about anything that we may have missed in any area of the sport?
A. From a personal point of view the sport is dying and I do not think we can do much to stop it because to be successful you need to put in time and that is something youngsters are inclined not to do. No youngsters are coming in and the age of the average fancier is climbing swiftly with many more each year being unable to continue or unfortunately falling off the perch. So I think that those of us who are still here and competing should enjoy it while we can. Who knows how long it will last in its present form. We all need to pull together and in the same direction, clubs and feds helping each other Classics and Nationals sharing transport if possible its our sport and we should all try to keep it going and as enjoyable as long possible.

Summary. Thanks to Brian for a good contribution that has many very good valid points that will be interesting to the readers. As I finish this article the racing is just getting underway and Brian is happy with the progress to date that will no doubt result in more winners before the season has finished.